Beer is no longer food for Russians
BMJ 2011; 342 doi: https://doi.org/10.1136/bmj.d1369 (Published 01 March 2011) Cite this as: BMJ 2011;342:d1369
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Not only alcoholic beverages (Rapid Responses Re: Beer is no longer food for Russians of 5, 8, 10 and 20 January 2014) but also other foreign products are often inadequately imitated in Russia.
For example, Dutch cheese used to be good since the Soviet times and resembled some original sorts. Today it is often unripe (Fig. 1) and, in my opinion, of lower quality than Russian sorts of cheese. Complaints to the authorities do not help. Discrediting all foreign?
Fig. 2. Jarlsberg cheese, sold in Moscow; the manufacturer is not indicated.
Competing interests: No competing interests
Oatmeal Stout (Fig. 1), produced according to the label by Etalon-Product in Ekaterinburg, Russia, is sold at the "Pyatnitskiy" Fish market in Moscow. Previously we reported on American and English Ale produced by the same manufacturer (Rapid Responses Re: Beer is no longer food for Russians of 27 December 2013 and 8 January 2014). It was reported about wines and spirits of foreign denominations manufactured in Russia at the 2012 ISBRA World Congress [1].
1. Jargin SV. Wines and spirits of foreign denominations manufactured in the former Soviet Union. 2012 ISBRA World Congress: 16th Congress of the International Society for Biomedical Research on Alcoholism; 9 September 2012, Sapporo, Japan. Alcoholism: Clinical and Experimental Research, Volume 36, Supplement S2.
Competing interests: No competing interests
Kotlas (Arkhangelsk region) is known to be a home of many alcohol users and abusers, among them former prisoners, and also some people compulsorily resettled from Moscow during the 1970-80s. Today the situation seems to be improving, heavy binge drinking being visibly in decline. It is surrogate (Fig. 1) sold in a large shop in Kotlas. Portwein 72 had been inexpensive red fortified wine of acceptable quality during the Soviet time. It has disappeared; and the popular label is used for selling of surrogates. "Port wine" 777 appeared later in the 1980s and has been of poor quality from the beginning. Portwein 777 sold in Moscow tasted like flavoured tea with addition of poor-quality alcohol [1]. Fig. 2: A reply to our letter from the authorities in Kotlas, where it is argued that it was not wine but “wine drink”. However, it is clearly written on the labels “Special Wine” (Fig. 1). Since the early 1990s there have been numerous severe intoxications including many lethal cases from surrogates sold in legally operating shops and kiosks. Many of such cases were diagnosed post mortem with “cardiac insufficiency” or other cardiovascular diseases, which is one of the reasons of the relatively high cardiovascular mortality in Russia since 1990 [2]. Sales of toxic alcoholic products were often tolerated by authorities. More details and references are in [3].
References
1. Jargin SV. Letter from Russia: minimal price for vodka established in Russia from 1 January 2010. Alcohol Alcohol. 2010;45(6):586-8. http://alcalc.oxfordjournals.org/content/45/6/586.long
2. Jargin SV. Health care and life expectancy: a letter from Russia. Public Health. 2013;127(2):189-90.
3. Jargin SV. Alcohol consumption by Russian workers before and during the economical reforms of the 1990s. Int. J. High Risk Behav Addict 2013;2:48-50. http://jhrba.com/22883.pdf
Competing interests: No competing interests
Different foreign sorts of beer, brewed in Russia, are sold in Moscow (Fig. 1). Consumers are sometimes in trouble: only some of them, having visited abroad, have tasted the originals, so it is often difficult to say, to what extent the imitations are similar to the originals. Fig. 2,3: American Pale Ale brewed in Russia.
Competing interests: No competing interests
Some of the wines sold in the Greater Sochi area (Olympic venue - 2014 Winter Olympics), including Chardonnay, Cabernet, Cahors, Champagne, as well as Cognac (Fig. 1), taste differently from their foreign analogues.
Fig. 2. Sochi Olympic Park 31 Dec 2013;
Fig. 3. Krasnaya Polyana - Olympic venue.
Competing interests: No competing interests
Pale Ale brewed in Russia (Fig. 1), as far as we can judge, tastes differently from English analogues. Whether it occurs according to a valid license, we do not know. Further details in [1].
1. Jargin SV. Changing pattern of alcohol consumption in Russia. Adicciones. 2013;25(4):356-7
http://www.adicciones.es/ficha_art_new.php?art=822
Competing interests: No competing interests
Alcoholic beverages and soft drinks of foreign denominations manufactured in the former Soviet Union
Previously we reported on imitations of foreign wines and spirits
manufactured in the former Soviet Union, in particular, about "Portwein"
(1). Research on its improvement is continued (2); which is not surprising
considering immense popularity of Port in Russia. Madeira wine (spelled
Madera in Cyrillic letters), is also produced in the countries of the
former SU. By taste and flavour it resembles Madeira indeed. However,
according to some rear etiquettes, it is fortified by "alcohol from food
materials" and not by wine spirits which is the normal practice
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madeira_wine). Besides, imitations of Port
and Champaign, wines named Cabernet, Sauvignon and Riesling, as well as
different sorts of Cognac are produced in the former Soviet Union. In the
North Caucasus, manufacturing of Calvados is developing (3). Furthermore,
Coca-Cola sold in Russia is often different from what can be obtained in
the West: it is sweeter and sometimes has an unusual taste. Beer
"Velkopopovicky Kozel", sold e.g. at the Japanese Film Festival
("Illusion" cinema, Moscow, on August 1, 2011), was different in taste and
flavour from what can be obtained in Czech Republic, and so forth.
Imitation of foreign wines and liquors in the former Soviet Union has long
traditions. Numerous old etiquettes, for example, of Madeira from the year
1954 or Pinot Gris from 1962, produced in Crimea, are shown in the book
(4). Some sorts of Champaign, Port, Madeira and Jeres have been of good
quality; and several generations of our people enjoyed them, when
importation from the West was very scarce. Thanks to this practice, many
our citizens are acquainted with foreign sorts of wine and spirits and
recognize today the originals. Some of the imitations are not in
production any more; and it would be a pity to lose those that are still
remaining. Our wine-makers, who have been not only professionals but
artists, made a great work developing new sorts of wine and spirits,
including the imitations, fuelled by genuine interest and understanding of
many people. Quality wine and Cognac were available to the broad public:
during the 1970s, a 0.75 l bottle of "marochnoe" (ch?teau) wine, for
example, Crimean Madera, Port or Jeres, cost about 3.30 roubles, their
cheaper but still good varieties - around 2.50 roubles, while a 0.5l
bottle of vodka cost about 4 and of Cognac - 8 roubles. During the anti-
alcohol campaign of 1985-88 we have lost a part of this heritage; today we
continue losing it. On the other hand, as far as we know, in West Europe
are sold only original products of the above-named denominations, in
accordance with the Protected Geographical Status framework, defined by
the law in European Union. The problem awaits its solution: under which
names and etiquettes the imitations can be legitimately produced and sold.
The optimal way, on our opinion, would be international agreements
regulating the use of denominations such as "Russian Champaign", "Crimean
Madera", "Armenian Cognac", etc. Some popular Portwein sorts in the former
Soviet Union were numbered (e.g. Portwein no. 33 or no. 72); it might be a
good idea to further use these denominations under the condition of strict
adherence to the recipe. In a sense, well known sorts of wines and spirits
can be compared with the works of art or architectural monuments: using
modern technologies, they can be imitated and "improved". This is the
reason why manufacturing standards of renowned beverages should be
protected by law together with their names. However, imitations have their
right to exist as well, provided that they are produced according to their
own standards, are legitimately labelled, and that consumers can clearly
recognize from the etiquette, where the original is and where is an
imitation.
References
1. Jargin SV. On the causes of alcoholism in the former Soviet Union.
Alcohol Alcohol 2010;45(1):104-5.
2. Alekseeva RV. Development of manufacturing technology of the
special wine Portwein from perspective sorts of grapes. Dissertation (in
Russian). Krasnodar: Kuban Technological University, 2009.
3. Blagoz AR, Ageeva NM. Manufacturing of Calvados in the Republic of
Adygea (in Russian). Wine-making and viticulture (a scientific and
industrial magazine issued by the Publishing House "Food Industry" 2007;
Issue 5, 16-7.
4. Kruchina E, Shtyrlin M, Sogoyan K. Crimean wines (in Russian).
Moscow: Izdatelstvo Zhigulskogo, 2004.
Competing interests: No competing interests
Since our last report [1] not much has changed in Russian alcohol
legislation. From 1 January 2011 the minimal retail
price for vodka was slightly elevated from 89 to 98 roubles for a 0.5 bottle. Minimum prices
for all alcoholic beverages with the concentration of alcohol by volume
above 28 % were elevated accordingly, proportionally to the alcohol
concentration. From the same date was established a minimal retail price
for cognac: 193 roubles for a 0.5 l bottle. Among reasons for the price
elevation were named inflation and increased excise duties.
Of more
interest is the bill (zakonoproekt) "On the State regulation of
manufacturing and turnover of the ethyl alcohol and alcohol-containing
products" submitted by the Government to the State Duma on 11 January 2011
in order to replace an analogous existing law. The changes in legislation
were conceived within the scope of the governmental policy aimed at a
decrease of the alcohol consumption and prevention of alcoholism. Among
other things, the following is specified by the bill: a prohibition of the
alcohol sales in educational, cultural and sportive institutions and on
adjacent territories. Alcoholic beverages except for beer below 5% of
alcohol by volume would be prohibited to sell also in places of mass
public concentration, near potentially dangerous objects and by "non-stationary" selling facilities, which obviously means small kiosks.
Selling of alcoholic products would be prohibited from 11 p.m. to 8 a.m.
Furthermore, alcoholic beverages with the volume concentration below 7%
would be prohibited to sell in containers larger than 330 ml, which is
aimed at prevention of alcoholism among the youth. An inscription "Alcohol
is dangerous for your health" would have to take no less than 20% of the
etiquette. There are also some technical measures specified by the bill,
such as licensing of alcohol transportation. It should be commented that
people from older generations remember that analogous measures were taken
during the Soviet time (before the alcohol campaign of 1985-87), e.g. in
the year 1972, when it was prohibited to sell vodka before 11 a.m. These
measures were ineffective at that time, and alcohol consumption continued
to grow. It seems that average quality of alcoholic beverages has been
slowly improving since the 1990s. One of the persisting drawbacks is poor
correspondence between the sort and the etiquette: for example, Pinot
Grigio sold in Moscow is sweetish and different from what can be obtained
in Italy. Another example: two beer sorts bought in one supermarket in the
centre of Moscow, "Bavaria" and "Baltica 3", were found to be identical; a
subtle difference noticed by one taster, on his opinion, was caused by
slightly different concentration. The consensus was that both sorts were
made from the same ingredients.
Reference
1. Jargin SV. Minimal price for vodka established in Russia from 1
January 2010. Alcohol Alcohol. 2010;45(6):586-8.
Competing interests: No competing interests
A new function was successfully found for an old building in the
Pyatnitskaya Street in the centre of Moscow: now it is a pub. It is already not the first one in Moscow. Reconstruction of the interior was complete in
accordance with the new function. As for the function: equipment of the
bar is modern, although different from what can be seen in England; and
ale is served somewhat colder to avoid excessive foaming. In fact, all
sorts of beer, including Pilsner and ale, are served at the same
temperature. The price of a 0.5 l mug in the Pub is approximately 15 times
higher than the cheapest 0.5 l bottle of beer in a shop. The atmosphere in
the bar is in agreement with the changing pattern of alcohol consumption
in today's Russia: from heavy binge drinking to moderate consumption of
beer and other beverages (1,2).
References
1. Jargin SV. Minimal price for vodka established in Russia from 1
January 2010. Alcohol Alcohol. 2010;45(6):586-8.
2. Jargin SV. On the causes of alcoholism in the former Soviet Union.
Alcohol Alcohol. 2010;45(1):104-5.
Competing interests: No competing interests
Re: Beer is no longer food for Russians
Cheese "Taleggio il Caravaggio" sold in Moscow (Fig. 1-4) seems to be melted and apparently does not correspond to its image and description in Wikipedia: "The cheese has a thin crust" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taleggio_cheese
Da dove vieni ?
Competing interests: No competing interests