Sudan in winter

The Khartoum Hilton, last month, was a comfortable pied-a-terre for an external examiner. Downstairs in the business centre I caught up on my emails. The Sunset Lounge had plenty of drinks, all non-alcoholic, and the lobby had a Christmas tree.

I felt surrounded by history. Along the Blue Nile was the palace where General Gordon died. Across the Nile itself were the Madhi's tomb and the Khalifa's house, now a museum, where a smiling guide …