Avoiding deaths on Everest

doi:10.1136/bmj.333.7568.603-b

BMJ 2006;333:603 (16 September), doi:10.1136/bmj.333.7568.603-b

Letter

Avoiding deaths on Everest

The first 150 words of the full text of this article appear below.

EDITOR—Sutherland attributes prolonged exposure to highaltitude through protracted rates of ascent as a fundamentalcause of deaths on Everest,¹ but the success of most expeditionsemphasises that death at high altitude is avoidable.

The Everest West Ridge expedition (www.armyoneverest.mod.uk)highlights the importance of a collective, inclusive approachin extreme conditions that incorporates detailed planning, dynamicleadership, and a holistic maintenance of the overall aim. After60 days of climbing on Everest's most demanding and treacherousroute, there were no deaths, severe injuries, or significantevacuations (when over 40 were reported on other routes).

The expedition began with a clear mission and careful selectionof people, with social fit of utmost priority. For almost threeyears the climbers prepared through prescribed training, simulation,and education in a framework of kinship and loyalty. They werephysically fit, well fuelled, properly equipped, and psychologicallyadaptable to meet conditions . . . [Full text of this article]

Stephen P Cobley, lecturer¹, Jim McKenna, professor², John Allan, lecturer

¹ s.cobley@leedsmet.ac.uk, ² Fairfax Hall, Carnegie Faculty of Sport & Education, Leeds Metropolitan University, Leeds LS3 6QS